North – South 2011
—
?

Leaving beautiful Savonlinna behind I perhaps left also the most interesting part of Finland. The last nice nature scenery and the last bath in a lake I had at Punkaharju – a narrow stripe of land cutting between Pihlajavesi and Puruvesi lakes. And there the busy roads began.

The proximity of Russian border makes the traffic heavy, and in consists of mix of speeding trucks coming from both sides of the border. This lasted for all the remaining time until Helsinki, with small exceptions of local roads which I preferred to pick as an alternative to national routes 6 and 7. However, around bigger towns there are usually bike paths, separating the weaker road users from the main stream of cars.

I should mention here that I use GPS maps for cyclists as an addition to the large-scale paper map. I definitely prefer paper, as it gives better look at the big picture and doesn't require batteries. However, the digital ones proved to be useful at the main road hubs and often led me through more tranquil suburbs. The priority the authors had set on cycling paths and minor roads was sometimes causing the device to find ridiculous routes, going around for some additional 50km. One should not trust it completely, and it is wise to check the shape of the entire suggested route before following it. But being free both in terms of license and money, these maps are just great. I wonder how well they will work in Africa.

Thanks to Velo Map I found a wooden shelter located in a park, just at a tiny lake. This place of entertainment for local people was surprisingly empty on Saturday evening. I spent a night there, appreciating low activity of mosquitoes and exceptionally clean water. Encouraged by this, I even pulled out the fishing rod. In few casts I got a tiny pike, which wasn't even 30cm long and a perch of size smaller than the lure it attacked. Molesting youngsters does not enjoy me, so I finished with that.

Sunday joy in Lappeenranta

After a breakfast enriched by first wild strawberries this year, I reached Lappeenranta, known for "the biggest sand castle in the world". In fact it is not a castle, but a collection of sand sculptures, some of them few meters high, representing clowns and other circus figures. A great fun for children, which must be constantly stopped by their parents from climbing the fragile structures.

Must try this in Africa

In the south of Finland there is more masonry, and big part of it seems to be of Swedish origin. Also, there are more Swedish speakers there, and all the road signs are bilingual. I met two members of this minority at roadside laundry. When I said that I was going to Helsinki, the reply was "Ah, you're going to Helsingfors!"

Cemeteries in the south have great ambience

Going along the coastal roads, which actually offer no view of the sea, I met crowds of cyclists. Much of them were just commuting, but there was also one Finnish biker going with full baggage. The conversation had been impossible, but the card he took out of his wallet explained everything in English. The man — unfortunately I don't remember his name — had a stroke and suffered from aphasia, which caused difficulties in communication and more complex intellectual tasks. He, however, travelled alone and was doing it well with quite slow pace. Another proof that bicycle journeys are virtually for everyone.

Fighting again with savage headwind I finally reached Helsinki. Orientation in the capital is not so easy, but just after I had came close to the center, some boy asked me in English. Rontti – that's his nickname – attends international school and uses opportunities like that to practice his language skills. He was also going to depart for a bicycle trip to Norway in a couple of weeks, so that was my full baggage which had drawn his attention. We cycled to the center having a nice talk, and then he left me at the metro station where I was supposed to meet another person.

I contacted Markus through the Warm Showers website, where he had been the first member from Helsinki. His tiny flat, where I had been invited to, was full of bicycles, tools and spare parts. Being a researcher at the university, he enjoys many other activities including bicycle touring, with unique experience of crossing from Slovakia to Poland through the highest peak in Poland, Rysy (2499m), with fully laden bicycle! There were many topics to talk about over a vegetarian dinner. In the morning he drove me to the ferry harbour, by a quick sightseeing route through the center of Helsinki.

With Markus and his fixed gear

Kiitos Markus, goodbye Finland! This is a country I would gladly visit in the future. Beautiful, relaxed, and full of interesting wildlife, especially insects ;)